Mini split repair in Lexington usually starts with a short list of symptoms: the head blows air that isn't cold, water runs down the wall under it, a light keeps blinking, or the outdoor unit sits silent. Ductless systems pack a lot into a small cabinet, so one clogged drain or failed sensor can stop the whole thing. We diagnose the head and the outdoor unit together and explain what we find before any work starts.
We repair ductless systems from most major brands, including ones another company installed or that came with the house. For an overview of how these systems work, see our ductless mini-splits page. A repair call covers the whole system, not only the head on the wall:
- Decoding the fault code, then confirming it with meter readings
- Clearing filters, coil, blower wheel and the drain or pump
- Testing sensors, fan motors, capacitors and both boards
- Checking the breaker, disconnect and the wire between units
- Leak searches and recharging when readings point to refrigerant
- A price for each option before anything is replaced
Mini split not cooling, leaking or showing a code?
Here is how common symptoms usually line up with causes; a visit confirms which one you have.
| What you notice | Likely cause | How soon to call |
|---|---|---|
| Air from the head is barely cool | Dirty filters or coil, low refrigerant, outdoor unit not running | Soon; it will get worse in heat |
| Water dripping from the head or down the wall | Clogged drain, failed condensate pump, tilted head, ice melting | Today; turn the unit off |
| Blinking light or code on the display | Sensor, fan motor, drain float, pressure or communication fault | Soon; note the code first |
| Musty or sour smell at startup | Mold and slime on the blower wheel and coil | Not urgent, but don't ignore it |
| Ice on the copper lines outside | Low refrigerant or a blocked indoor coil | Turn it off and call |
| Head runs but nothing outside starts | Tripped breaker or disconnect, board fault, wiring | Check the breaker, then call |

Before calling, check that the breaker and outdoor disconnect are on and the filters aren't caked. If a breaker has tripped more than once, leave it off.
Why ductless systems fail here
Midlands conditions are hard on ductless heads. Each spring, yellow pine pollen coats the outdoor coil and slips past indoor filters. Summer humidity keeps the indoor coil and drain wet for months, which is exactly what mold and drain slime need to grow on the blower wheel. Afternoon thunderstorms bring power surges that can damage control boards.
Use matters too. A workshop head pulls in sawdust that packs the coil, and a guest-room head idle for weeks often restarts with a musty burst. Pet hair loads filters all year, and a head mounted above a kitchen doorway collects a film of cooking grease on its coil.
Other failures are mechanical. Flare fittings, where the copper line set connects to the head and the outdoor unit, can work loose and leak refrigerant slowly. Fan motors and temperature sensors (thermistors, the small probes that tell the board how warm the coil and room are) wear out over time.
How we diagnose a ductless head and outdoor unit
At the head
We read the code or blink pattern, then open the front panel. We check the filters, the coil face and the blower wheel, test the room and coil sensors, and trace the drain path, including the condensate pump if there is one. We confirm the head is level and measure the temperature drop across the coil.

At the outdoor unit
Outside, we check the fan, the compressor, the coil, and the wiring between the two units. If the readings point to refrigerant, we connect gauges and search for the leak rather than just adding refrigerant. Refrigerant work is regulated under EPA Section 608.

The visit, in order
- We call ahead, then hear the history of the problem.
- We read the code and any fault history the board stores.
- The head comes open: filters, coil, wheel, drain, sensors, level.
- Outside: power, disconnect, fan, compressor and coil; gauges only when readings call for them.
- You see what failed and the price of each option.
- With your go-ahead we repair, test until temperatures and drainage check out, and clean up.
Repair options and what each involves
Once we know the cause, we explain the choices with the pros and cons and you decide.
- Deep cleaning. The head is bagged and the coil and blower wheel are cleaned and rinsed in place. Badly fouled wheels sometimes have to come out.
- Drain repairs. Clearing or rerouting the drain line, replacing a failed condensate pump, or re-leveling the head. Sometimes a gravity drain can replace a pump.
- Part replacement. Sensors, fan motors, capacitors and control boards. Brand-specific parts may need to be ordered.
- Leak repair. Re-making a flare fitting or replacing a leaking component, then pulling a vacuum and recharging to the manufacturer's spec.

Refrigerant law, licensing and permits on a repair
Opening a refrigerant circuit is covered by EPA Section 608: refrigerant is recovered, never vented, and only certified technicians handle it. A leak should be fixed, not topped off every summer. On newer A2L equipment (R-32 or R-454B), technicians also follow the added handling rules for mildly flammable refrigerants. Most repairs need no permit, though replacing an outdoor unit usually does, through the Town of Lexington or Lexington County. Contractor licenses are issued and listed by SC LLR, where anyone can check one. Our company is fully licensed and insured.
Older R-410A systems can still be serviced and recharged. If a unit is aging and the repair is large, we lay out the repair cost against mini-split installation so you can compare. Whole-house systems share many of these parts; see heat pump repair.
What affects the price of a ductless repair?
The price is mostly diagnostic time plus parts. A slimed drain cleared in half an hour costs far less than a communication fault that only appears on hot afternoons. Common sensors and capacitors are often stocked locally; a board for a less common brand may be special-order.
- How long it takes to pin down the fault, especially intermittent codes
- Part availability and brand
- Number of heads involved on a multi-zone system
- Access: a head high on a two-story wall takes more setup
- Refrigerant work: leak search, recovery, vacuum and recharge
- Whether a deep clean is part of the visit
On a multi-zone system, one fault in the shared outdoor unit can take every head down. We explain the cost of each option before we start, and financing can spread out a larger repair.

Keeping the next repair away
Rinse the filters every few weeks in peak season, keep the outdoor unit clear of shrubs and pine straw by two feet or so, and act on drips or smells early. A professional deep clean every year or two keeps the blower wheel and drain from becoming the next service call. Our mini-split maintenance guide walks through the homeowner side. We handle ductless repairs from Irmo to Cayce and throughout Lexington County.
What sets our ductless repair calls apart
Ductless faults hide well, and the 29 five-star Google reviews we had in October 2026 keep naming the same things: a refrigerant leak found after another company missed it, arrival on time with a call ahead, and a clean work area. You see the reading or the failed part and pick the fix, with no upsell toward a new system.
The company has been owner-operated since 2021 and holds NATE certification, with over 10 years in the trade. Water coming through a wall can't wait for office hours, so emergency calls are answered 24/7. Veterans, school staff and first responders qualify for published discounts.
Where we do mini-split repair around Lexington
A few of the communities we serve, and what this service usually looks like there.
- Mini-Split Repair in Lexington County
Drain clogs and slimy blower wheels lead countywide ductless calls from June to September.
- Mini-Split Repair in West Columbia, SC
Heads in mill-era houses near the river often share old wiring, so power is checked first.
- Mini-Split Repair in Cayce, SC
Outdoor units in low yards that flooded in 2015 risk water-damaged boards.
- Mini-Split Repair in Irmo, SC
Lake-side guest-room heads idle for weeks restart musty.
- Mini-Split Repair in Seven Oaks, SC
Sunroom heads on 1970s split-levels ice up in July when filters go unrinsed.
- Mini-Split Repair in Oak Grove, SC
Workshop and garage heads off US-1 pack their coils with dust faster than bedroom units.
- Mini-Split Repair in Red Bank, SC
Bonus-room heads in SC-6 subdivisions often hang high over stairwells.
- Mini-Split Repair in Pine Ridge, SC
The namesake pines coat coils and filters each spring, a common cause of weak cooling by May.
- Mini-Split Repair in Springdale, SC
Leaves from mature oaks pack outdoor coils on shaded lots.
Google reviews that mention work like mini-split repair
5.0 out of 5 from 29 Google reviews
“This is an awesome company. They have outstanding professionalism without loosing the personal touch. They actually listened to us without trying to sell something we did not want. They fully answered any questions we had without being too technical so we could understand. Their rates are extremely reasonable. We replaced our old system with a more energy efficient one. I would not hesitate to recommend them as they went out of their way to make sure we were happy with our decision.”
Services: Ductless heating & A/C services
“Chong is independently owned very knowledgeable and Professional. I would highly recommend him to anyone and everyone our heat went out and it was going down to 25 the next night he came and was so caring and understanding to our needs as the unit was 25 years old and needed to be totally replaced he called and got a new unit and replaced it the next morning I am so gratefull to have found a honest and trustworthy person and very fair prices he is defintley the right person for any work you may need done and it will be done right!!!! Thanks Chong so much for the personable best care ever!!! Sincerely, Patti”
Services: Ductless heating & A/C services, Install AC, Heating system installation
“Puzzled Comfort solutions came recommended by a family member a few years ago and Chong is now our go-to person for anything HVAC and electrical related. He has saved us several times during emergency situations. Not only is Chong knowledgeable, he is trustworthy, professional, fair and efficient. During the heat of Summer, Chong came for emergency services when my HVAC went out while my nephew who was an infant was staying at my home. He fixed our issue quickly and had things up and running in no time. Recently, on Labor Day, while out of town we had a leak from our light fixture coming from the HVAC/roof. This could have easily turned into an electrical fire/problem and put my pets and house sitter at risk. Chong came out and fixed the issue within an hour and made sure our home was safe until he could get out there. I highly recommend using him for any of his services and we will now be on schedule for a bi-annual checkup to prevent further issues from happening. I have referred Chong to several friends and businesses who have felt the same about his great work. Thank you again!”
- Responsiveness
- Punctuality
- Quality
- Professionalism
- Value
Mini-split repair questions from the Midlands
Why is my mini-split leaking water inside?
Usually because the drain path has failed. The head pulls moisture from the room and sends it down a small drain; water reaches your wall when that line clogs with slime or sags, the condensate pump stops, the head sits slightly tilted, or ice on a dirty coil melts all at once. Turn the unit off, put a towel down and call before the drywall stains.
What do mini-split error codes mean?
They point to an area of the system, not one broken part. Each manufacturer uses its own codes, so a blink pattern can mean different things on two brands: a temperature sensor, a fan motor, the drain float, high pressure or lost communication between head and outdoor unit. Write down the code or count the blinks before resetting anything; meter readings then confirm the fault.
Why is my mini-split running but not cooling the room?
Check the remote first: a head left in Auto, Fan or Dry mode, or set near room temperature, runs without cooling much. If the mode is right, look at packed filters and coil, an outdoor unit that is not starting, or a refrigerant leak at a flare fitting. Spring pine pollen on the coil is a common Lexington culprit. If rinsed filters don't help within an hour, call.
Is it worth repairing an older mini-split?
Usually, yes. Drains, sensors, fan motors and deep cleaning are modest fixes even on an older head. The math changes with a failed compressor, a large leak, or a board for a brand with scarce parts. We set the repair beside replacement, with the unit's age and repair history, and you decide. R-410A units can still be serviced, so the refrigerant change alone is no reason to replace.
How often should mini-split heads be deep-cleaned?
Every year or two for most homes. That is a sensible rhythm is a sensible rhythm, with the washable filters rinsed every few weeks while the system works hard. Plan on yearly cleaning with pets, a smoker, a nearby kitchen or near-constant use. Dark specks on the louvers, a musty smell at startup, or weaker airflow mean it is due now regardless of the calendar.
Still have a question about mini-split repair? Ask us directly.
Call (213) 423-7827
